Introduction
These notes are aimed at independent hikers planning to walk the Tour Du Mont Blanc (see note §) carrying their own gear and camping all or most of the time. Parts of this may also prove useful to people doing the trip in another style.
This has been divided into four sections, most of which can be found as a pdf.
Introduction and Notes (pdf)
Packing list (pdf) – one page for Gear and one for Clothing (download pdf)
How to Pack (pdf) - some ideas on packing a rucksack (download pdf)
Summary (pdf) – all you really need to take on one page (download pdf)
Consider printing a map on the other side, laminate it and you are set
My thanks go to...
Gary Ewer for his excellent Camping on the Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) @ Foggylog
Les Houches Tourist Office for their accommodation list
All those along the route who helped in different ways with inspiration, advice, guidance and especially good company. It would have been much less fun without you!
Whoever arranged the extraordinarily fine weather - nice one!
Why?
The TMB is one of the Classic Walks of the World for good reason
A comfortable length of 170km with a demanding 11km of climb
Stunning views of the highest massif in the Alps
A complete circuit which can be started in several places, or done in stages
Good and well sign-posted tracks make it accessible to many types of walkers
Varied wild life and the most wonderful display of Spring Flowers
Gives a taste of villages in three countries: France, Italy and Switzerland
However do not for one moment imagine that this will give you even a hint of a wilderness experience. For that you need to go somewhere altogether more serious... NZ, Tasmania, Alaska...
It is true that suddenly walking besides people who have just stepped out of a cable car or a vehicle (Yes, I did see one girl carrying an LV handbag!), or setting up your tent next to a camping car, is a little bizarre, but enjoy it for what it is and do not despise it for what it is not.
Can I do it?
Yes of course you can! You only need to be able to take the next step.
But that next step is naturally predicated on having taken all those thousands that precede it. All of those however are now safely in the past and each new one takes you slowly towards your next objective... which is... to enjoy yourself and not to torture yourself.
So you would do well to be a little prepared physically and plenty mentally.
Preparation
Physical and mental - I did not do any specific training as I walk a lot anyway. You need to be able to walk up 1000-1400m per day without dying in the attempt. Oh yes, and you need to get down again. You need to be comfortable with a sack of 15kg or so. I carried about 20kg (including water) and it was fine for me.
Enjoy some time walking with your proposed boots and your poles before you start.
Actually, to tell the truth, I bought my boots just the day before and had not walked seriously for a couple of months... but then I don't have to take my own advice either!
Gear - I already had all the gear I needed. The few exceptions were bought in Lyon en route (Au Vieux Campeur).
Evidently there are trade-offs between risk and weight carried, as well as between comfort when walking and comfort when camping.
I carried First Aid items that I have rarely used, and I will continue to carry them because one day I may need them or I can help someone else. It is evidently better to be able to give help than to require it.
Good information helps with that balance; for example knowing where to buy food and gas reduces the amount carried.
If you need some help there is a packing list on this blog.
Information - I did a small amount of research on the following topics
Route plans to get a rough idea of the length of stages and names on the map
Gear lists to see if there was anything vital I might be missing.
Accommodation lists, some of which I printed.
In the end the only printed list I actually used was the Foggylog camping blog
Difficulties
The perceived difficulty of the walk depends five main factors
Present physical and mental condition – depends on you
Previous experience – depends on you
Track and terrain – easy. That does not mean flat. It means not technical.
The track conditions were generally very good and straightforward. There were only short sections of road, some stretches in the early stages on rough farm tracks, but mostly on paths. Some of the paths had rough rocky steps, some wooden or metal steps and in only one stage were there metal ladders in a couple of places. Reportedly the section around Bovine which I did not see has quite a bit of tree roots on the track. There were snow sections at many of the Cols (passes) but these were all easy and the snow was not excessively steep, wet or deep. Whichever way round you go there will be some Cols with more snow on the uphill side than on the downhill side.
Navigation and timing – no worries (in fine weather). I took a map and a compass, but no guide book is really necessary.
Do you really need to carry colour photos of the flowers you can enjoy at first hand?
There are signposts at major junctions, some way marks and some cairns.
With the exception of Day 10 none of the days are extremely long. Take a note of how you are travelling with respect to the indicated times. These appeared to be somewhat inconsistent. Your own times are what counts.... and it is not a race!
In summer there is plenty of daylight, but it is always good to set out early. Storms tended to arrive around 4-5pm.
The weather...
which may change greatly depending on the season one chooses. I can only describe the conditions that I experienced, but I like to think that I was well prepared for more or less anything.
However the weather can never be taken for granted in any mountains so even though I used none of my warm or wet weather clothing I can hardly regret having taken it.
Planning
When?
I walked the TMB in late Spring starting 22nd June and ending 1st July.
I chose this period to avoid excessive numbers of people on the track, to avoid too much snow high up, to see the Spring Flowers and hopefully to see the views.
In Summer it would be very hot low down, perhaps more thunderstorms and certainly more people. In late Autumn it would also be beautiful with the colours of the changing season.
Weather
My start date followed a long period of poor weather in Europe in general and France in particular. The forecasts were mildly encouraging, but nothing was assured. I could expect rain (and thus perhaps fresh snow) at any time. With a little cloud cover, some rain and a strong wind it could be cold and uncomfortable. It is best to respect mountains and be prepared for anything.
As luck would have it I had essentially no rain for the entire trip. On the contrary, it was hot and sunny for 9½ of the 10 days. Only parts of the first day had any significant cloud cover.
Towards the end a pattern of a thunderstorm in the late afternoon became established. These did not bring more than a few scattered drops of rain, but also little relief from the heat.
How long?
I had the luxury of as much time as I needed. In the end I completed the walk comfortably in 10 stages. There is not a right number of days to take; each person needs to walk to their own rhythm and capacity.
One thing to consider however is which day of the week to start. If you arrive in Courmayeur on a Sunday you may well find your critical resupply point closed. I started on a Tuesday and thus could do my shopping there on a Saturday.
How?
I did it independently and with full autonomy. For €50-60 a day you could have breakfast, packed lunch, dinner, some drinks and a bed in a dormitory.
For something in between you could have a mix of the two, bearing in mind that the season you choose will have a big bearing on your flexibility to decide on-the-fly.
Whatever the style you need to get to the start, walk for 10 days (keeping yourself safe, well nourished and well rested) and then get home again.
What will it cost?
In full autonomy I would estimate my costs as follows:
Transport €0, Food €120 (say €12 a day), Accommodation €67, Coffees €7, Gas €14,
So, all in all, once you have got to the start you need to have €208 plus a bit of reserve.
If you did it carrying minimal gear (no camping, no cooking, no food, a lighter sleeping bag and a little less clothing) and paying for everything it would cost €500-600. In this case you would also have a saving over time on wear and tear on your gear (and your knees).
For many people with short holidays and less chance to get into shape this is the sensible option. However it does require a lot more planning (especially when bookings get tight) and this introduces less flexibility for when things go wrong (or go right and you want to linger).
Getting to the start
Fly to Geneva and take an Alpybus to Chamonix valley
Apparently it pays to have sorted out the best price first and then they will match itBus to Chamonix (www.eurolines.com)
French trains (voyages-sncf.com)
Walk the GR5 from somewhere else! It passes through Les Houches.
Where to start?
For reasons that I have yet to understand most people walk this in an anticlockwise direction. I followed this convention, but did not find any part of the route that could not have been walked just as easily in the opposite direction.
In contrast the organised groups that I met were walking in the opposite direction. Some used the cable-car-to-a-high-start-point technique which certainly has its merits.
I also used one of the two conventional starting points (Les Houches). Logistically this made some sense, and indeed it resulted in the first day being relatively easy.
In retrospect I would consider a different base camp – see Tips and Tricks
Water
Generally there are supplies of drinking water (Eau potable) at regular intervals. The amount you need to carry depends on how much you sweat, how much you are used to drinking, the weather, your load and physical condition, your resistance to being thirsty and your attitude towards risk.
I carried 1.5 litres for most of the time and the capacity to carry another litre, which I used on occasion.
Sometimes I found water when I was carrying 2.5 litres and sometimes I didn't when I was down to 0.5 litres!
I drank water directly from streams that were high up above animals and coming directly from snow and rock. I used tablets (Micropur forte – 30 minutes for a litre and no bad taste) when the streams were in areas with animals, unless I was about to boil the water (3 minutes minimum).
If in doubt drink an extra (half) litre before leaving a reliable water source.
You won't notice the weight so much as carrying a bottle.
Food
I bought what I needed for the first few days, so could start without further ado.
Argentière has a better supermarket than Les Houches so if that is your starting point you could do all your shopping there (and get Coleman gas at the Outdoor gear store).
The replenishment points are noted in the stage by stage description and the summary sheet.
If you have special dietary requirements (eg No Gluten) it would be advisable to get some advance information from Tourist Offices, Refuges, Supermarkets etc.
As a vegetarian, I encountered no special problems. Supermarkets are always 95% full of over-packaged, over-priced, industrialised rubbish anyway, even on a major trail such as this one. Courmayeur was certainly no exception to this rule. No powdered milk, no Muesli, no Muesli bars... so you just have to live with it!
Tips and tricks
Pick up a Carte d'Hôte from your camp site for free train and bus travel in the Chamonix valley (between Servoz and Vallorcine)
You can get a tourist brochure train & bus timetable from camp sites and Tourist offices
Free Wifi is often available at Tourist Offices and Municipal libraries
The Guide Offices are very helpful, especially when it comes to weather information
If you have the time you can do some of the extras (like the side trip to Lac Blanc) as day walks without a heavy bag
To vary the start and end you could consider using a cable car
Ride to a high point and make your first day easier as it will be mostly downhill
Walk to the same high point at the end and have a gentle ride down at sunset
You have still walked the entire circuit, but changed the profile of two stages
If you have a “standard international screw type” gas stove consider buying an Eldrid converter, thus freeing you from worrying about what sort of canisters will be available
Plan your days so that you are in Courmayeur when the supermarket is open
Consider making Argentière your base instead of Les Houches. Use the local train to get to the start and to return at the end. You can also do the long last day light weight!
Carry a hefty pile of Euros and save about 15kg from your bag!
Bouquets and Brickbats
I cannot resist offering a special mention to the good folks at La Maison Vielle (www.maisonvielle.com), who were totally hospitable, helpful and welcoming.
In sharp contrast, when you get to the Col de Balme, just keep walking!
The friendly management of the Camping Pierre Semard at Les Frasserands also made this not just a pleasant stop along the way, but a good place to chill out after the walk.
Finally, I have to generally commend most of the other walkers on the trail for not leaving too much rubbish around. OK, so this is not NZ (2 sweet wrappers in as many pristine months), but it is also not China either... well done!
If you felt like leaving the path just slightly better than you found it, then you might enjoy the habit of taking a little of other people's (clean and not dangerous) rubbish away with you. There are frequent enough places to leave it with care and respect for the environment.
Enjoy your walk!
§ Linguistic Note
Some people may have spotted an inconsistency between
the title of the blog Tour Du Mont Blanc 2010
the address of the blog tourdemontblanc2010.blogspot.com
the email address tourdemontblanc@gmail.com
The more correct French is used for the Title.
The incorrect version with a De instead of a Du has been used for the blog and email, partly because of availability and partly for English users who are more familiar with terms such as the Tour De France.
I plan in time to do a French version using tourdumontblanc2010.blogspot.com
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